By Braddah Lance
Being in the middle of the Pacific Ocean surrounded by water, you can't help but visit the beach at least once in your life.
For as long as I can remember, I've always been in the water whether it be at picnics, surfing, diving, watevahs - just as long as there was sand and surf, I was good. It didn't hurt that wen I used to live in Sand Island, I literally could just hop our fence and be at the beach.
With the recent South swells, as NKHEA keeps reminding me, da Pacific comes a calling.
Da past few weeks I hit da surf wenevah I could during lunch - my only free time to surf - but yesterday was almost fate-like. Da Wife had planned to have a pau hana get together with a few of her ex-coworkers after work so I was left in a predicament. Do I go all the way home, take care the dogs, rest for a hour and drive back or do I stay at work and work on some things.
I wen surf Baby!
Boy was it epic!
It wasn't as big as last weekends swell but a solid three feet (Hawaiian scale of course). It was a bit inconsistent at Point Panic but knowing wea to sit in the lineup was key so I had more than my share of fun waves. I was in da water for a little ovah 2 ½ hours till da only light we saw was the moonlight and it was the most time I've evah spent surfing since high school wea I'd surf on average 10 hours a day.
Barrel aftah barrel I was so stoked to not only be in da watah for dat long but da fact dat I was in da right part of da lineup wea da "hui" was going on da first sets and once they were gone I was still fortunate enough to catch da last one in da set. Almost every wave was pitching nicely due to da light winds and low tide.
My last wave was unreal.
It was one of the bigger waves of the day and all I could see was a huge wall lining up. I pulled in high and tight and whooosh! A picture perfect wave barrelling from beginning to end and I threw in a few spinners (body surfing rolo move) and not only made it out but rode it all the way in wea I didn't even have to paddle in to get back on shore.
It was euphoric... and Da Wife can attest cause wen I went to pick her up, all she saw was a huge grin ear to ear even aftah I was out of da water.
I was grinning ear to ear cause I took one look at my beautiful wife and couldn't help myself.
We may have talked about it before but yesterday was just so enlightening dat it refreshes my soul.
So wat is it dat you do, want to do, have done dat makes you "euphoric"? Eating chocolate? Playing cards? Hitting golf balls?
C'mon, share yours.... or you like keep 'em to yourself?